Composition comprising an alkoxysilane and a modified starch, and cosmetic use thereof

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising (i) one or more alkoxysilanes, and (ii) one or more starches modified with an acid or an acid derivative. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials with this composition, and also to the use of this composition for caring for and/or shaping keratin materials.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This is a continuation of U.S. application Ser. No. 14/122,453, filed onNov. 26, 2013, which claims priority to Application No.PCT/EP2012/059928, filed internationally on May 28, 2012, which claimspriority to U.S. Provisional Application No. 61/528,624, filed on Aug.29, 2011 and French Application No. 1154646, filed on May 27, 2011, allof which are incorporated by reference herein in their entireties.

The present invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmeticcomposition, containing at least one alkoxysilane and at least onestarch modified with an acid or an acid derivative.

Keratin fibres may suffer attack of diverse origins, for instancemechanical attack (disentangling or brushing), or chemical attack(dyeing or permanent waving). This attack has an impact on the qualitiesof the fibre and will lead to difficult disentangling at the time ofwashing the hair, and to a non-smooth, dry and uneven surface when thehair is dry. The hair is difficult to style and lacks softness.

The conditioning compositions that are currently proposed compriseessentially cationic surfactants, fatty substances, silicones andcationic polymers. They make it possible to facilitate disentangling bysoftening the keratin fibre and provide sheen, softness, and uniformityto dried hair. However, these effects do not withstand shampooing, andthe application of these compositions is essential at each washing stepin order to treat and facilitate the disentangling of the hair.

Moreover, it is found that consumers are increasingly in search of carecompositions that are not only capable of appropriately conditioning thehair, but also capable of affording satisfactory styling effects.

In particular, people with fine or curly hair are generally in search ofcare products that afford styling effects that give mass, body andvolume to fine hair and curl definition to curly hair.

It has already been proposed especially in FR 2 783 164 to usealkoxysilanes to give the hair styling properties. However,aminosilane-based compositions have problems of stability on storage andalso incompatibilities with components widely used in cosmetics such ascertain classes of surfactants and of conditioning agents. Consequently,compositions of this type are difficult to thicken.

Furthermore, the results obtained are not completely satisfactory eitheras regards the cosmetic properties themselves or their durability.

There thus exists a need to have available more effective conditioningand styling compositions.

The Applicant Company has discovered, surprisingly, that compositionscomprising at least one ionic starch and at least one alkoxysilane makeit possible to solve the problems raised above.

More specifically, one subject of the invention is a composition,especially a cosmetic composition comprising:

(i) one or more alkoxysilanes, and

(ii) one or more starches modified with an acid or an acid derivative.

Such a composition shows satisfactory thickening and furthermore isstable over time. It is easy to distribute over the hair, easy to removewith water and leads to shiny, smooth, soft hair that is easy todisentangle. The composition affords densification to the head of hair(gives the impression of a larger number of hairs), body, volume andease of shaping, in particular for fine hair. Finally, the compositionsaccording to the invention also make it possible to give curly hairstyling effects, especially in terms of curl definition and control.

The styling and cosmetic properties last over time, even aftershampooing several times.

A further subject of the invention is a method for the nontherapeuticcosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular the hair,comprising the application, to said materials, of a composition asdescribed above.

A subject of the invention is also the use of a composition according tothe invention for caring for and shaping keratin materials, especiallykeratin fibres and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or morealkoxysilanes.

The alkoxysilanes present in the composition according to the inventionare preferably chosen from organosilanes comprising one, two or threesilicon atoms, preferably one or two silicon atoms.

The alkoxysilanes present in the composition according to the inventionmay comprise two or more hydrolysable or hydroxyl groups per molecule.The hydrolysable groups are preferably alkoxy, aryloxy or halogengroups. They may optionally comprise other chemical functions, such assalified or non-salified amine, salified or non-salified carboxylicacid, salified or non-salified sulfonic acid, salified or non-salifiedphosphoric acid, salified or non-salified sulfuric acid, and aldehyde,polyalcohol or polyether functions.

Preferably, the alkoxysilanes of the invention comprise one or moreamine or aldehyde functions.

Even more preferably, the alkoxysilanes of the invention comprise one ormore amine functions.

When the alkoxysilane present in the composition according to theinvention comprises one or more amine functions, they are preferablyprimary amines (—NH2) and/or secondary amines (—NHR).

According to one particular embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s) present inthe composition according to the invention are chosen from the compoundsof formula (I):

in which:

R₄ represents a halogen or a group OR_(a) or R_(1a);

R₅ represents a halogen or a group OR_(b) or R_(2a);

R₆ represents a halogen or a group OR_(c) or R_(3a);

R₁ and R₂ represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, asaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group,optionally substituted with an amine function, which itself may bear asubstitution with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branchedhydrocarbon-based group, possibly bearing an amine function, preferablyR₁ or R₂ necessarily denoting a hydrogen atom,

R₃, R_(a), R_(b), R_(c), R_(1a), R_(2a) and R_(3a) represent,independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched hydrocarbon-based group, optionally bearing additional chemicalgroups such as acid or amine groups, R_(a), R_(b) and R_(c) alsopossibly denoting hydrogen, and at least two of the groups R₄, R₅ and R₆being different from the groups R_(1a), R_(2a) and R_(3a). Preferably,at least two of the groups R_(a), R_(b) and R_(c) are other thanhydrogen.

Preferably, the groups R₁, R₂, R_(a), R_(1a), R_(2a), R_(3a), R_(b) andR_(c) are chosen from C₁-C₁₂ alkyl, C₅-C₁₄ aryl,(C₁-C₈)alkyl(C₅-C₁₄)aryl and (C₅-C₁₄)aryl(C₁-C₈)alkyl radicals.

Preferably, the group R₃ is chosen from C₁-C₁₂ alkylene radicals,optionally substituted with an amino, C₅-C₁₄ arylene,(C₁-C₈)alkylene(C₅-C₁₄)arylene or (C₅-C₁₄)arylene(C₁-C₈)alkylene group.

According to one particular embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s)corresponding to formula (I) are preferably3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane,N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and3-(2-aminoethylamino)propylmethyldiethoxysilane.

According to another particular embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s) usedaccording to the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula(II):

(R₂₁O)x(R₂₂)ySi—(B)p-[NR₂₃—(B_(a))pa]q-[NR_(23a)—(B_(b))pb]qa-Si(R_(22a))ya(OR_(21a))xa

in which: R₂₁, R₂₂, R_(21a) and R_(22a) represent, independently of eachother, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-basedchain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionallyinterrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether,ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, y=3-x, xa is an integer rangingfrom 1 to 3, ya=3-xa, p=0 or 1, pa=0 or 1, pb=0 or 1, q=0 or 1, qa=0 or1, it being understood that at least q or qa is other than zero,

B, B_(a) and B_(b) each independently represent a linear or brancheddivalent C₁-C₂₀ alkylene radical.

R₂₃ and R_(23a) each independently represent a hydrogen atom or asaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain,optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted orsubstituted with one or more ether, C₁-C₂₀ alcohol ester, amine,carboxyl, C₆-C₃₀ aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic ornon-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or moreC₁-C₂₀ alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acylgroups.

Preferably, R₂₃ and R_(23a) represent a hydrogen atom.

As explained previously, R₂₁, R₂₂, R_(21a) and R_(22a) eachindependently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain. The term“hydrocarbon-based chain” preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to30 and preferably 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R₂₁=R_(21a); R₂₂=R_(22a); x=xa; y=ya; p=pa; B=B_(a); q=1 andqa=0.

The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II) may also have the followingcharacteristics, taken alone or in combination:

-   -   R₂₁, R₂₂, R_(21a) and R_(22a), which may be identical or        different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkyl,    -   p=pa=1;    -   B and B_(a), which may be identical or different, represent a        linear C₁-C₄ alkylene.

For example, the alkoxysilane(s) are chosen frombis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amine of formula(CH₃CH₂O)₃-Si(CH₂)₃NH(CH₂)₃Si(OCH₂CH₃)₃ sold by the company Fluorochem,bis[trimethoxysilylpropyl]amine of formula(CH₃O)₃—Si(CH₂)₃NH(CH₂)₃Si(OCH₃)₃ sold by the company Gelest,bis[methyldiethoxysilylpropyl]amine of formula(CH₃CH₂O)₂CH₃Si(CH₂)₃NH(CH₂)₃SiCH₃(OCH₂CH₃)₂ sold by the company Gelest,and bis[3-trimethoxysilylpropyl]ethylenediamine of formula(CH₃O)₃Si(CH₂)₃NH(CH)₂NH(CH₂)₃Si(OCH₃)₃ sold by the company Gelest.Among these compounds, bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amine andbis[methyldiethoxysilylpropyl]amine are preferred.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the alkoxysilane(s)are chosen from the compounds of formula (III):

in which:

R₂₄ and R₂₅ represent, independently of each other, a saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionallycontaining one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted orsubstituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine,amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,

e=2 or 3;

f=3-e;

g=0 or 1;

j=0 or 1;

E and E_(a) each independently represent a linear or branched divalentC₁-C₂₀ alkylene radical,

R₂₆ and R₂₇ each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturatedor unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionallycontaining one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted orsubstituted with one or more ether, C₁-C₂₀ alcohol ester, amine,carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C₆-C₃₀ aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or aheterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substitutedwith one or more C₁-C₂₀ alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl,alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups,

i is an integer ranging from 0 to 4,

h is 0 or 1,

the group(s) R₂₈ each independently represent a hydrogen atom or asaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably C₁-C₁₀hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms,optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C₁-C₂₀alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, C₆-C₃₀ aryl, hydroxyl or carbonylgroups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionallysubstituted with one or more C₁-C₂₀ alcohol ester, amine, amide,carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups.

As explained previously, R₂₄ and R₂₅ each independently represent ahydrocarbon-based chain. The term “hydrocarbon-based chain” preferablymeans a chain comprising from 1 to 30 and preferably 1 to 10 carbonatoms.

Similarly, R₂₆ or R₂₇ may represent a hydrocarbon-based chain. In thiscase, it preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to 30 and preferably1 to 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the aromatic ring comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Evenmore preferentially, it denotes an optionally substituted phenylradical.

The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (III) may have the followingcharacteristics, taken alone or in combination:

-   -   R₂₄ is a C₁-C₄ alkyl,    -   e=3, g=j=1; i=h=0,

R₂₆ and R₂₇ independently represent hydrogen or a group chosen fromC₁-C₄ alkyl, C₁-C₄ hydroxyalkyl and C₁-C₄ aminoalkyl groups.

Preferably, R₂₆ or R₂₇ denote a hydrogen atom.

In particular, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (III) may be chosen from:

-   -   3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, of formula:

-   -   p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, of formula:

-   -   N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane, of        formula:

More preferentially, the alkoxysilane(s) that may be used in thecompositions according to the present invention correspond to formula(IV):

in which:

R₁ and R₂, independently of each other, are chosen from hydrogen andethyl, propyl and aminoethyl groups;

R₃ is chosen from ethyl, propyl and methylphenethyl groups;

R₄, R₅ and R₆, independently of each other, are chosen from methyl,methoxy and ethoxy groups.

In one variant of the invention, the alkoxysilanes of the inventioncomprise one or more primary or secondary amine functions.

Preferably, the alkoxysilanes of the invention are chosen from thecompounds of formulae (I), (III) and (IV) and more particularly thefollowing compounds: 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES),3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane,N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane andN-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane of formula:

More particularly, the alkoxysilanes of the invention are chosen fromthe compounds of formula (I), especially 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane(APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES),3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane andN-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and preferably thealkoxysilane is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).

The alkoxysilane(s) may be present in the cosmetic composition accordingto the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 20%, in particularfrom 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 5%, by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or morestarches modified with an acid or an acid derivative.

The starches that may be used in the present invention are moreparticularly macromolecules in the form of polymers formed fromelemental units that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these unitsand their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linearpolymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions ofamylose and of amylopectin, and their degree of polymerization, vary asa function of the plant origin of the starches.

The starch molecules used in the present invention may originate from aplant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, legumes and fruit. Thus,the starch(es) may originate from a plant source chosen from corn, pea,potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oat, sago, tapiocaand sorghum. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

It is also possible to use the starch hydrolysates mentioned above.

Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, which is insolublein cold water, whose elemental particle size ranges from 3 to 100microns.

The starches used in the composition of the invention may be chemicallymodified via one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization,oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, heat treatments.

More particularly, these reactions may be performed in the followingmanner:

-   -   pregelatinization by splitting the starch granules (for example        drying and cooking in a drying drum);    -   oxidation with strong oxidizing agents, leading to the        introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and to        depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating        an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite);    -   crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the        hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules, which will thus bond        together (for example with glyceryl and/or phosphate groups);    -   esterification in alkaline medium for the grafting of functional        groups, especially C₁-C₆ acyl (acetyl), C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl        (hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl) and carboxyalkyl.

The acids or acid derivatives may be mineral or organic acids or acidderivatives. The term “derivatives” means salts of mineral or organicacids, organic acid chlorides, organic acid anhydrides, organic acidesters or mineral oxychlorides.

Monostarch phosphates (of the type Am-O—PO—(OX)₂), distarch phosphates(of the type Am-O—PO—(OX)—O-Am) or even tristarch phosphates (of thetype Am-O—PO—(O-Am)₂) or mixtures thereof may especially be obtained bycrosslinking with phosphorus compounds.

X especially denotes alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium),alkaline-earth metals (for example calcium or magnesium), ammoniumsalts, amine salts, for instance those of monoethanolamine,diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, or ammoniumsalts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine,sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.

The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate,sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodiumtrimetaphosphate.

Starch phosphates, in particular hydroxypropyl starch phosphates, orcompounds rich in starch phosphate and in particular in hydroxypropylstarch phosphate may thus be used, for instance the products sold underthe references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassavadistarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate)and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by thecompany Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinizedhydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate).

When the starches are chemically modified via an esterificationreaction, carboxyalkyl starches as indicated previously are obtained.

The carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxy(C₁-C₄)alkyl starchesand salts thereof, and more particularly carboxymethyl starches andsalts thereof.

The salts are especially salts of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metalssuch as Na, K 1/2, Li, NH₄, or salts of a quaternary ammonium or of anorganic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine ortriethanolamine.

Carboxyalkyl starches are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups ontoone or more alcohol functions of starch, especially by reaction ofstarch and of sodium monochloroacetate in alkaline medium.

The carboxyalkyl groups are generally attached via an ether function,more particularly to carbon 1.

The degree of substitution preferably ranges from 0.1 to 1 and moreparticularly from 0.15 to 0.5. The degree of substitution is definedaccording to the present invention as being the mean number of hydroxylgroups substituted with an ester or ether group (in the present caseether for the carboxymethyl starches) per monosaccharide unit of thepolysaccharide.

The carboxyalkyl starches preferably comprise units having the followingformula:

X denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal suchas Na, K 1/2, Li or NH₄, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine.

Preferably, X denotes an ion Na⁺.

The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the presentinvention are preferably non-pregelatinized carboxyalkyl starches.

The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the presentinvention are preferably partially or totally crosslinked carboxyalkylstarches.

The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the presentinvention are preferably sodium salts of carboxyalkyl starches, inparticular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethyl starch, sold especiallyunder the name Primojel by the company DMV International. More than 95%of the particles of this starch have a diameter of less than 100 micronsand more particularly less than 65 microns.

Starch acetates or acetylated starches may also be used in theinvention, the acetylation possibly being performed especially withacetic anhydride or with vinyl acetate. A starch acetate that may bementioned is the product Perfectamyl AC sold by the company Avebe.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphotericstarches, these amphoteric starches containing one or more anionicgroups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groupsmay be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or todifferent reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the samereactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate orsulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be ofprimary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

The amphoteric starches are especially chosen from the compounds havingthe following formulae:

in which formulae:

St-O represents a starch molecule,

R, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or amethyl radical,

R′, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, amethyl radical or a —COOH group,

n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,

M, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, analkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li or NH₄, aquaternary ammonium or an organic amine,

R″ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to18 carbon atoms.

These compounds are especially described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,455,340 andU.S. Pat. No. 4,017,460.

The starches of formula (V) or (VI) are particularly used as amphotericstarches. Starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid aremore particularly used, i.e. starches of formula (V) or (VI) in which R,R′, R″ and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. Mention maybe made in particular of the potato starch modified with2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide,sold under the reference Structure Solanace by the company NationalStarch.

Preferably, one or more starches chosen from starch phosphates andstarch acetates will be used.

According to the invention, the starch(es) modified with an acidderivative may represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from0.1% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the amount of starch modified with an acidderivative to the amount of alkoxysilane ranges from 0.01 to 20,preferably from 0.05 to 10 and better still from 0.1 to 5.

The composition according to the invention may comprise water, one ormore organic solvents or a mixture of water and one or more organicsolvents, the organic solvents preferably being selected from C₁-C₄lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol;polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol andpolyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

In the composition according to the invention, the water may be presentin a content ranging from 10% to 95% by weight and preferably rangingfrom 20% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or morethickeners other than the modified starches as described previously.

The thickener(s) may be selected from fatty acid amides obtained from aC₁₀-C₃₀ carboxylic acid (coconut acid monoisopropanolamide,diethanolamide or monoethanolamide, oxyethylenated alkyl ethercarboxylic acid monoethanolamide), cellulose-based thickeners(hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum),nonionic starches and associative polymers.

The associative polymer(s) that may be used according to the inventionare water-soluble polymers that are capable, in aqueous medium, ofreversibly combining with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobiczones characterized by at least one fatty chain containing preferablyfrom 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The associative polymer(s) that may be used according to the inventionand that are different from the acrylic thickening polymers may be ofanionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type, such as the polymerssold under the names Elfacos T210 or T212 by the company Akzo.

Among all the additional thickeners mentioned, the thickener(s) arepreferably chosen from cellulose-based thickeners.

When they are present, the composition preferably comprises from 0.1% to20% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, ofadditional thickener(s), relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or moreconditioning agents.

According to the present invention, the term “conditioning agent”denotes any compound that can improve the cosmetic properties of thehair, in particular the softness, disentangling, feel and staticelectricity.

The conditioning agent is preferably selected from the group comprisingcationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones such asorganosiloxanes, linear or branched C₈-C₃₀ hydrocarbons, linear orbranched C₈-C₃₀ fatty alcohols, esters of C₈-C₃₀ fatty acid and C₁-C₃₀alcohol, and especially esters of C₈-C₃₀ fatty acid and C₈-C₃₀ fattyalcohol, esters of C₁-C₇ acid or diacid and C₈-C₃₀ fatty alcohol,ceramides or ceramide analogues, and mixtures of these compounds.

The term “cationic polymer” means a polymer that is positively chargedwhen it is contained in the composition according to the invention. Thispolymer may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may containone or more cationizable functions in the composition according to theinvention.

The cationic polymer(s) that may be used as conditioning agentsaccording to the present invention are preferably selected from polymerscomprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groupsforming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, andhaving a molecular weight of between 500 and about 5 000 000 andpreferably between 1000 and 3 000 000.

Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly arepolymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammoniumtype. These are known products. They are described, for example, inFrench Patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.

Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylicesters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of thefollowing formulae:

in which:

R₃ and R₄, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atomor an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methylor ethyl;

R₅, which are identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH₃group;

A, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branchedalkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbonatoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R₆, R₇, R₈, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl grouphaving from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably analkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

X⁻ denotes an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as amethosulfate anion, or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of the family (1) may further contain one or more unitsderiving from comonomers which may be selected from the family ofacrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides andmethacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C₁-C₄) alkyls,acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams suchas vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of:

-   -   copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate        quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,        such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by the company        Hercules,    -   copolymers of acrylamide and of        methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, described, for        example, in Patent Application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the        name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,    -   the copolymer of acrylamide and of        methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under        the name Reten by the company Hercules,    -   quaternized or non-quaternized        vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate        copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by        the company ISP, such as, for example, Gafquat 734 or Gafquat        755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958        and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French        Patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,    -   dimethylaminoethyl        methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such        as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company        ISP,    -   vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers        sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by the company        ISP,    -   quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide        copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS        100 by the company ISP, and    -   the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C₁-C₄)alkyl        tri(C₁-C₄)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by        homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate        quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of        acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with        methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by        crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more        particularly methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked        acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride        copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion        containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil can be        used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name        Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. A crosslinked        methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer, for        example as a dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester, can        also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names        Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

(2) Polymers composed of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene orhydroxyalkylene groups containing straight or branched chains,optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or byaromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/orquaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are especiallydescribed in French Patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.

(3) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular bypolycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; thesepolyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, adianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, abis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkylhalide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction ofa difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, abis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, anepihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; thecrosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can bealkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions,they can be quaternized. Such polymers are especially described inFrench Patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.

(4) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation ofpolyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylationwith difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipicacid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which thealkyl groups contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denote amethyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene groups contain from 1 to4 carbon atoms and preferably denote the ethylene group. Such polymersare especially described in French Patent 1 583 363.

Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of theadipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers soldunder the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(5) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyaminecontaining two primary amine groups and at least one secondary aminegroup with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid andsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylicacid is between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefromis reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrinrelative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Such polymers are described in particular in U.S. Pat.No. 3,227,615 and 2 961 347.

Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 orDelsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipicacid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.

(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium,such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent ofthe chain, units corresponding to formula (XIII) or (XIV):

in which formulae: k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equalto 1; R₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R₁₀ and R₁₁,independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group haspreferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C₁-C₄) amidoalkyl group, orelse R₁₀ and R₁₁ may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they areattached, denote heterocyclic groups, such as piperidyl or morpholinyl;Y⁻ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate,tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers areespecially described in French Patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificateof Addition 2 190 406.

R₁₀ and R₁₁, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkylgroup having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularlyof the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the nameMerquat 100 by the company Nalco (and its homologues of lowweight-average molecular weights) and the copolymers ofdiallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the nameMerquat 550.

(7) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating unitscorresponding to formula (XV):

in which formula (XV):

R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ and R₁₆, which may be identical or different, representaliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 7carbon atoms or lower (C₁-C₄) hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, oralternatively R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ and R₁₆, together or separately, constitute,with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocyclesoptionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, oralternatively R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ and R₁₆ represent a linear or branched C₁-C₆alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a—CO—O—R₁₇-D or —CO—NH—R₁₇-D group where R₁₇ is an alkylene having from 1to 10 carbon atoms and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

A₁ and B₁ represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbonatoms, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated andmay contain, joined to or intercalated in the main chain, one or morearomatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide,sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium,ureido, amide or ester groups, and

X⁻ denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

A₁, R₁₃ and R₁₅ may, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they areattached, form a piperazine ring; moreover, if Ai denotes a linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B₁may also denote a group

—(CH₂)_(n)—CO-D-OC—(CH₂)_(p)—

in which:

n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,

D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula: —O—Z—O—, where Z denotes a linear orbranched hydrocarbon-based group or a group corresponding to one of thefollowing formulae:

—(CH₂—CH₂—O)_(x)—CH₂—CH₂—

—[CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O]_(y)—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—

where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined andunique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representingan average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: —NH—Y—NH—, where Y denotesa linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or else the divalent group—CH₂—CH₂—S—S—CH₂—CH₂—;

d) an ureylene group of formula: —NH—CO—NH—.

Preferably, X⁻ is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers generally have a number-average molecular weight ofbetween 1000 and 100 000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French Patents 2320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and U.S. Pat.Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002,2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193,4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

Use may be made more particularly of polymers that are formed fromrepeating units corresponding to formula (XVI):

in which: R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀ and R₂₁, which are identical or different,denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atomsapproximately, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,and X⁻ is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

One particularly preferred compound of formula (XVI) is that for whichR₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀ and R₂₁ represent a methyl group and r=3, s=6 and X=Cl,which is called Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCl nomenclature(CTFA).

(8) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers consisting of units of formula(XVII):

in which formula:

R₂₂, R₂₃, R₂₄ and R₂₅, which are identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl,β-hydroxypropyl or —CH₂CH₂(OCH₂CH₂)_(p)OH group, where p is equal to 0or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R₂₂, R₂₃, R₂₄and R₂₅ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and6,

v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

X⁻ denotes an anion such as a halide,

A denotes a dihalide group or preferably represents —CH₂—CH₂—O—CH₂—CH₂—.

Such compounds are described especially in Patent Application EP-A-122324.

Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the products Mirapol®A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175, sold by the companyMiranol.

(9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, forinstance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 andFC 370 by the company BASF.

(10) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses andderivatives of cationic celluloses, and cationic galactomannan gums.

Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made moreparticularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternaryammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivativesgrafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationicgalactomannan gums.

The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groupsare described in French Patent 1 492 597. These polymers are alsodefined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with atrimethylammonium group.

The cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose derivatives graftedwith a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are describedespecially in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses,for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl cellulosesgrafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium,methacrylamidopropyltri-methylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in U.S.Pat. No. 3,589,978 and 4 031 307, in particular guar gums containingcationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gumsmodified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example,chloride).

Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the inventionare cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates,polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymerscontaining vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates ofpolyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitinderivatives.

The cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are, in particular,chemically modified polypeptides bearing quaternary ammonium groups atthe end of the chain, or grafted thereon. Their molecular weight mayvary, for example, from 1500 to 10 000 and in particular from 2000 to5000 approximately. Among these compounds, mention may be madeespecially of:

-   -   collagen hydrolysates bearing triethylammonium groups, such as        the products sold under the name Quat-Pro E by the company        Maybrook and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Triethonium        Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate;    -   collagen hydrolysates bearing trimethylammonium chloride and        trimethylstearylammonium chloride groups, which are sold under        the name Quat-Pro S by the company Maybrook and are referred to        in the CTFA dictionary as Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen;    -   animal protein hydrolysates bearing trimethylbenzylammonium        groups, such as the products sold under the name Crotein BTA by        the company Croda and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as        Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein;    -   protein hydrolysates bearing quaternary ammonium groups on the        polypeptide chain, said ammonium groups containing at least one        alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made, inter alia, of:

-   -   Croquat L, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain a C₁₂        alkyl group;    -   Croquat M, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain        C₁₀-C₁₈ alkyl groups;    -   Croquat S, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain a C₁₈        alkyl group;    -   Crotein Q, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain at        least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These various products are sold by the company Croda.

Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, thosecorresponding to the formula (XVIII):

in which X⁻ is an anion of an organic or inorganic acid, A denotes aprotein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R₂₉ denotesa lipophilic group containing up to 30 carbon atoms, and R₃₀ representsan alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may, for example,be made of the products sold by the company Inolex, under the nameLexein QX 3000, called, in the CTFA dictionary, Cocotrimonium CollagenHydrolysate.

Mention may also be made of quaternized plant proteins such as wheat,corn or soybean proteins: quaternized wheat proteins that may bementioned include those sold by the company Croda under the namesHydrotriticum WQ or QM, which in the CTFA dictionary are calledCocodimonium Hydrolysed wheat protein, or Hydrotriticum QL, which in theCTFA dictionary is called Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, or elseHydrotriticum QS, which in the CTFA dictionary is called Steardimoniumhydrolysed wheat protein.

Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of thepresent invention, it is preferred to use cationic cyclopolymers, suchas defined above, in particular the dimethyldiallylammonium chloridehomopolymers or copolymers sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550and Merquat S by the company Nalco, and quaternary vinylpyrrolidone andvinylimidazole polymers, cationic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.

The conditioning agent(s) that can be used according to the inventionmay be selected from cationic surfactants.

The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant that is positivelycharged when it is contained in the composition according to theinvention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanentcharges or may contain one or more functions that are cationizable inthe composition according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used as conditioning agentsaccording to the present invention are preferably selected fromoptionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fattyamines, or the salts thereof, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixturesthereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C₈-C₃₀hydrocarbon-based chain. Among the fatty amines that can be usedaccording to the invention, examples that may be mentioned includestearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentionedinclude:

-   -   those corresponding to the general formula (XIX) below:

in which the groups R₈ to R₁₁, which may be identical or different,represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at leastone of the groups R₈ to R₁₁ denoting a group containing from 8 to 30carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphaticgroups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen,nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, forexample, from C₁₋₃₀ alkyl, C₁₋₃₀ alkoxy, (C₂-C₆)-polyoxyalkylene, C₁₋₃₀alkylamide, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂-C₆)alkyl, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylacetate, andC₁₋₃₀ hydroxyalkyl; X⁻ is an anion chosen from the group of halides,phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfates and (C₁-C₄)alkylsulfonates or (C₁-C₄)alkylaryl sulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XIX), those that arepreferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instancedialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which thealkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, inparticular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium,cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, onthe other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, thestearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, thestearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or thestearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under thename Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly preferredto use the chloride salts of these compounds;

-   -   quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of        formula (XX) below:

in which R₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R₁₃represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkylgroup containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R₁₄ represents a C₁-C₄ alkylgroup, R₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₄ alkyl group, X⁻ is ananion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates,alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alkylaryl sulfonates, the alkyl andaryl groups of which preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. R₁₂ and R₁₃ preferablydenote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R₁₄ denotes amethyl group, and R₁₅ denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold,for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

-   -   quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (XXI):

in which R₁₆ denotes an alkyl group containing approximately from 16 to30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interruptedwith one or more oxygen atoms, R₁₇ is selected from hydrogen or an alkylgroup containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or the following group:

R′₁₆, R′₁₇, R′₁₈, R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀ and R₂₁, which may be identical ordifferent, are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X⁻ and Y⁻ are anions in particular selectedfrom the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and(C₁-C₆)alkyl sulfates, in particular methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P from the company Finetex(Quaternium-89), Finquat CT from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75) andCondicate CT from the company Innospec Active Chemicals (Quaternium-75);

-   -   quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester        function, such as those of formula (XXII) below:

in which:

R₂₂ is chosen from C₁-C₆ alkyl groups and C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl ordihydroxyalkyl groups;

R₂₃ is chosen from:

-   -   the group

-   -   groups R₂₇ which are linear or branched, saturated or        unsaturated C₁-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups,    -   a hydrogen atom,

R₂₅ is chosen from:

-   -   the group

-   -   groups R₂₉ which are linear or branched, saturated or        unsaturated C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon-based groups,    -   a hydrogen atom,

R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromlinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₂₁ hydrocarbon-basedgroups;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers rangingfrom 2 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from0 to 10;

X⁻ is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

with the proviso that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0,then R₂₃ denotes R₂₇ and that when z is 0, then R₂₅ denotes R₂₉.

The alkyl groups R₂₂ may be linear or branched, and more particularlylinear.

Preferably, R₂₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropylgroup, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.

When R₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₇, it may be long and containfrom 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3carbon atoms.

When R₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₉, it preferably contains 1 to 3carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which may be identical or different,are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₁-C₂₁hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched,saturated or unsaturated C₁₁-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equalto 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X⁻ is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or analkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, use may bemade of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derivedfrom an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anioncompatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.

The anion X⁻ is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to theinvention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XXII) in which:

R₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R₂₃ is chosen from:

-   -   the group

-   -   methyl, ethyl or C₁₄-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups;    -   a hydrogen atom;

R₂₅ is chosen from:

-   -   the group

-   -   a hydrogen atom;

R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromlinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ hydrocarbon-basedgroups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturatedC₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (XXII)such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl-methylammonium,triacyloxyethylmethylammonium andmonoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methylsulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferablycontain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from aplant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound containsseveral acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification oftriethanolamine, of triisopropanolamine, of alkyldiethanolamine or ofalkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally alkoxylated, with C₁₀-C₃₀fatty acids or with mixtures of C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty acids of plant or animalorigin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. Thisesterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agentsuch as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkylsulfate (preferably a dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methylmethanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin orglycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by thecompany Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by thecompany Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, amixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester saltswith a weight majority of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least oneester function that are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,874,554 and U.S.Pat. No. 4,137,180.

The particularly preferred cationic surfactant(s) that may be usedaccording to the invention are selected from compounds of formula (XIX)or of formula (XXII),methyl(C₉-C₁₉)alkyl(C₁₀-C₂₀)alkylamidoethylimidazolium salts, andstearamidopropyldimethylamine.

Among all the cationic surfactants that may be present in thecomposition according to the invention, it is preferred to selectcetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium,di(palmitoyloxyethyl)hydroxyethylmethylammonium,di(stearoyloxyethyl)hydroxyethylmethylammonium,methyl(C₉-C₁₉)alkyl(C₁₀-C₂₀)alkylamidoethylimidazolium salts,stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyldimethylamine,stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) may be present in a content ranging from0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weightand more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative tothe total weight of the composition of the invention.

When the composition in accordance with the invention comprises one ormore cationic surfactants, the starches modified with an acidderivative/cationic surfactant(s) weight ratio generally ranges from 0.1to 50, even more preferentially from 1 to 25 and better still from 1 to10.

Among the silicones that may be used as conditioning agents inaccordance with the present invention, mention may be made, in anon-limiting manner, of:

I. Volatile Silicones:

These silicones have a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C. Amongthe silicones of this type that are mentioned are:

(a) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7, and preferably 4 to 5,silicon atoms.

These are, for example, the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under thename Volatile Silicone 7207® by the company Union Carbide, or Silbione70045 V2® by the company Rhône-Poulenc, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxanesold under the name Volatile Silicone 7158® by the company Union Carbideor Silbione 70045 V5® by the company Rhône-Poulenc, and mixturesthereof. Mention is also made of cyclopolymers of thedimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile FZ3109® sold by the company Union Carbide, which is adimethylsiloxane/methyloctylsiloxane cyclopolymer;

(b) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and havinga viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s at 25° C.

These are, for example, the hexamethyldisiloxane sold under the nameSilbione 70041 V0.65® by the company Rhône-Poulenc. This type of productis described in the article by Todd & Byers “Volatile silicone fluidsfor cosmetics”, Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pages27-32.

II. Non-Volatile Silicones:

These silicones are mainly constituted by polyalkylsiloxanes,polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and organomodifiedpolysiloxanes, and also mixtures thereof. They may be in the form ofoils, gums and resins.

Among the polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made mainly of linearpolydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of greater than 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s, andpreferably less than 2.6 m²/s, i.e.:

-   -   containing trimethylsilyl end groups, such as, for example, and        without limitation, the Silbione® oils of series 70047 that are        sold by the company Rhône-Poulenc, the oil Wacker Belsil DM        60000 from Wacker, or certain Viscasil® products from the        company General Electric;    -   containing trihydroxysilyl end groups of the 48 V® series from        the company Rhône-Poulenc.

In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of thepolyalkylsiloxanes sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names AbilWax 9800® and Abil Wax 9801®, which are poly(C₁₋₂₀)alkylsiloxanes.

Among the polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of linear and/orbranched polydimethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes,with a viscosity from 10⁻⁵ to 5×10⁻² m²/s, for instance:

-   -   the oil Rhodorsil® 763 from Rhône-Poulenc,    -   the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhône-Poulenc, such        as the oils Silbione 70641 V30® and Silbione 70641 V200®,    -   the product DC 556® Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning,    -   the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as PK20®,    -   the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the        products PN 1000® and PH 1000®;    -   certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF        1250®, SF 1265, SF 1154® and SF 1023®.

The silicone gums in accordance with the present invention arepolydiorganosiloxanes with a high number-average molecular weight ofbetween 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solventselected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils,polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride,pentane, dodecane, tridecane and tetradecane, or mixtures thereof.

Mention is made, for example, of the compounds having the followingstructures:

-   -   poly[(dimethylsiloxane)/(methylvinylsiloxane)] gums,    -   poly[(dimethylsiloxane)/(diphenylsiloxane)] gums,    -   poly[(dihydrogenodimethylsiloxane)/(divinylsiloxane)] gums,    -   poly[(dimethylsiloxane)/(phenylmethylsiloxane)] gums,    -   poly[(dimethylsiloxane)/(diphenylsiloxane)/(methylvinylsiloxane)]        gums.

The Mirasil DM 300 000 gum from the company Rhodia may be mentioned.

Mention may also be made, for example, in a nonlimiting manner, of thefollowing mixtures:

1) mixtures formed from a hydroxyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxane(dimethiconol according to CTFA nomenclature) and from a cyclicpolydimethylsiloxane (cyclomethicone according to CTFA nomenclature),such as the products Q2 1401® or Dow Corning 1501 Fluid sold by thecompany Dow Corning;

2) mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclicsilicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid® from GeneralElectric, which is an SE 30® gum of MW 500 000 (−M_(n)) dissolved in SF1202 Silicone Fluid® (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane);

3) mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, especially of a PDMSgum and a PDMS oil, such as the products SF 1236® and CF 1241® from thecompany General Electric. The product SF 1236® is the mixture of an SE30® gum defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m²/s, and of an SF 96® oilwith a viscosity of 5×10⁶ m²/s (15% SE 30® gum and 85% SF 96® oil).

The product CF 1241® is the mixture of an SE 30® gum (33%) and of a PDMS(67%), with a viscosity of 10⁻³ m²/s.

The organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with theinvention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the followingunits: R₂SiO_(2/2), RSiO_(3/2) and SiO_(4/2) in which R represents ahydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenylgroup. Among these products, those which are particularly preferred arethose in which R denotes a lower (C₁-C₄) alkyl group or a phenyl group.

Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under thename Dow Corning 593® or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS4230 and Silicone Fluid SS 4267 by the company General Electric, whichare dimethyl/trimethylpolysiloxanes.

The organomodified silicones in accordance with the present inventionare silicones as defined above, comprising, in their general structure,one or more organofunctional groups directly attached to the siloxanechain or attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Mention may be made, for example, of the silicones comprising:

a) perfluoro groups such as trifluoroalkyls, for instance those sold bythe company General Electric under the names FF.150 FluorosiliconeFluid® or by the company Shin-Etsu under the names X-22-819®, X-22-82®,X-22-821® and X-22-822®;

b) hydroxyacylamino groups, for instance those described in PatentApplication EP 0 342 834 and in particular the silicone sold by thecompany Dow Corning under the name Q2-8413®;

c) thiol groups, as in the silicones X 2-8360® from the company DowCorning or GP 72A® and GP 71® from Genesee;

d) non-quaternized amine groups, such as GP 4 Silicone Fluid® fromGenesee, GP 7100® from Genesee, Q2 8220® from Dow Corning, AFL 40® fromUnion Carbide or the silicone known as Amodimethicone in the CTFAdictionary;

e) carboxylate groups, for instance the products described in Patent EP186 507 from Chisso Corporation;

f) hydroxylated groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes containinga hydroxyalkyl function, described in French Patent Application FR 8 516334.

Mention may be made most particularly of the product sold by Dow Corningunder the name DC 190;

g) alkoxylated groups, as in the silicone copolymer F 755® from SWSSilicones and the products Abil Wax 2428®, Abil Wax 2434® and Abil Wax2440® from the company Goldschmidt;

h) acyloxyalkyl groups, for instance the polyorganopolysiloxanesdescribed in Patent Application FR 8 817 433, corresponding to formula(XXIV) below:

in which:

-   -   R₂ denotes methyl, phenyl, OCOR″ or hydroxyl, but only one R₂        per silicon atom may be OH;    -   R′₂ denotes methyl or phenyl, at least 60 mol % of the entirety        of the R₂ and R′₂ groups being methyl;    -   R″ denotes C₈-C₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl;    -   R denotes a linear or branched, divalent C₂-C₁₈        hydrocarbon-based alkylene;    -   r is between 1 and 120 inclusive;    -   p, q is 0 or is less than 0.5 p, with p+q being between 1 and 30        inclusive:

the polyorganosiloxanes of formula (XXIV) may contain groups:

in proportions not exceeding 15% of the sum p+q+r;

i) quaternary ammonium groups, as in the products X2 81 08® and X2 8109® and the product Abil K 3270® from the company Goldschmidt;

j) amphoteric or betaine groups, such as in the product sold by thecompany Goldschmidt under the name Abil B 9950®;

k) bisulfite groups, for instance in the products sold by the companyGoldschmidt under the names Abil S 201® and Abil S 255®;

l) polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprisingC₆-C₂₄ alkyl groups, such as the products called dimethicone copolyolsold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248, or the oilsSilwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide, andthe alkyl (C₁₂) methicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning underthe name Q2 5200.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use siliconescomprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion composed of anon-silicone organic chain, with one of the two portions making up themain chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto said mainchain. These polymers are described, for example, in Patent ApplicationsEP-A-412 704, EP-A-412 707, EP-A-640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-582 152and WO 93/23009 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,693,935, U.S. Pat. No. 4,728,571 andU.S. Pat. No. 4,972,037. These polymers are preferably anionic ornonionic.

Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that may be obtained byfree-radical polymerization from the monomer mixture formed from:

a) 50% to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;

b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid;

c) 5% to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula (XXV):

where v is a number ranging from 5 to 700; the percentages by weightbeing calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.

Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular,polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, by means of aconnecting link of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of thepoly((meth)acrylic acid) type and of the poly(alkyl (meth)acrylate)type; and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, by meansof a connecting link of thiopropylene type, polymer units of thepoly(isobutyl (meth)acrylate) type.

According to the invention, all the silicones can also be used in theform of emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

The particularly preferred polyorganosiloxanes in accordance with theinvention are:

-   -   non-volatile silicones selected from the family of        polyalkylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, such as oils        having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m²/s at 25° C., for        instance the oils of the DC200 series from Dow Corning, in        particular the one with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt, or of the        Silbione 70047 and 47 series, and more particularly the oil 70        047 V 500 000 sold by the company Rhodia Chimie, and        polyalkylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups, such as        dimethiconols, or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, for instance the oil        Silbione 70641 V 200 sold by the company Rhodia Chimie;    -   polysiloxanes containing amino groups, such as amodimethicones        or trimethylsilylamodimethicones.

The viscosities of the silicones may especially be determined by thestandard ASTM D445-97 (viscometry).

When the conditioning agent of the composition according to theinvention is a hydrocarbon, it is a linear or branched C₈-C₃₀hydrocarbon.

Among the hydrocarbons that are liquid at room temperature correspondingto this definition, mention may be made especially of isododecane,isohexadecane and isomers thereof (such as2,2,4,4,6,6-heptamethylnonane), isoeicosane, isotetracosane, isomers ofthe said compounds, n-nonadecane, n-dodecane, n-undecane, n-tridecaneand n-pentadecane, liquid petroleum jelly, and mixtures of thesehydrocarbons.

Use is preferably made according to the invention of isododecane or anisomer thereof, or liquid petroleum jelly.

When the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol, this alcohol is a linearor branched, saturated or unsaturated C₈-C₃₀ alcohol. Among the latter,mention may, for example, be made of 2-butyloctanol, lauryl alcohol,2-octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and mixturesthereof.

When the conditioning agent is a fatty ester, this ester may be eitheran ester of a C₈-C₃₀ fatty acid and a C₁-C₃₀ alcohol, and especially anester of a C₈-C₃₀ fatty acid and a C₈-C₃₀ fatty alcohol, or an ester ofa C₁-C₇ acid or diacid and a C₈-C₃₀ fatty alcohol.

Among these esters, mention may, for example, be made of ethyl,isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl and 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl, butyl,cetyl and 2-octyldecyl myristate, butyl and hexyl stearate, hexyl and2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl malate, myristylmyristate, cetyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

This ester may also be an ester of a polyol and especially of glycerol,such as a natural or synthetic glyceride. Natural triglycerides that maybe mentioned include plant oils such as avocado oil, olive oil,wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrowoil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, sweetalmond oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil,babassu oil and pracaxi oil, and mixtures thereof.

The ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may beused as conditioning agent in the compositions according to theinvention are known per se and are natural or synthetic molecules thatmay correspond to the general formula (XXVI) below:

in which:

-   -   R₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl        group, derived from C₁₄-C₃₀ fatty acids, it being possible for        this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha        position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified        with a saturated or unsaturated C₁₆-C₃₀ fatty acid;    -   R₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)_(n), (galactosyl)_(m)        or sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from        1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;    -   R₃ denotes a C₁₅-C₂₆ hydrocarbon-based group which is saturated        or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this        group to be substituted with one or more C₁-C₁₄ alkyl groups;

it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides orglycoceramides, R₃ can also denote a C₁₅-C₂₆ α-hydroxyalkyl group, thehydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C₁₆-C₃₀ α-hydroxyacid.

The ceramides which are preferred in the context of the presentinvention are those described by Downing in Arch. Dermatol., Vol. 123,1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French Patent FR 2 673 179.

The ceramide(s) that are more particularly preferred according to theinvention are the compounds for which R₁ denotes a saturated orunsaturated alkyl derived from C₁₆-C₂₂ fatty acids; R₂ denotes ahydrogen atom; and R₃ denotes a saturated linear C₁₅ group.

Such compounds are, for example:

-   -   N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine,    -   N-oleyldihydrosphingosine,    -   N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine,    -   N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine,    -   N-behenyldihydrosphingosine,

or mixtures of these compounds.

Even more preferentially, ceramides are used for which R₁ denotes asaturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids; R₂denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R₃ denotes a—CH═CH—(CH₂)₁₂—CH₃ group.

Among all of these conditioning agents, preference is given to the useof one or more conditioning agents selected from silicones such asorganosiloxanes and cationic polymers.

The composition according to the invention preferably contains from0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weightof conditioning agent(s), relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or moreconventional additives that are well known in the art, other than thecompounds defined previously. As examples of additives that may be usedaccording to the invention, mention may be made of anionic surfactants,amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, proteins,protein hydrolysates, vitamins, reducing agents, plasticizers,softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, pigments, clays, mineral fillers,UV-screening agents, abrasive agents (pumice, apricot kernel powder),mineral colloids, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, preservatives,nacreous agents, propellants, antidandruff agents (for example, zincpyrithione, octopirox, selenium sulfide, ellagic acid and derivatives),agents for combating hair loss or agents for promoting hair regrowth;these additives being other than the compounds defined above.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optionaladditive(s) and the amount thereof such that they do not harm theproperties of the compositions of the present invention.

The additive(s) are generally present in the composition according tothe invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may be provided in all theformulation forms conventionally used for a topical application and inparticular in the form of aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic solutions, ofoil-in-water (O/W), water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W orO/W/O) emulsions, of aqueous gels or of dispersions of a fatty phase inan aqueous phase using spherules, it being possible for these spherulesto be polymeric nanoparticles, such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, orlipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes oroleosomes). These compositions are prepared according to the usualmethods.

In addition, the compositions used according to the invention can bemore or less fluid and can have the appearance of a white or colouredcream, of an ointment, of a milk, of a lotion, of a serum, of a paste orof a foam. They can optionally be applied to the keratin materials inaerosol form. They can also be in solid form, for example in the form ofa stick.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose theoptional compound or compounds to be added to the composition accordingto the invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsicallyattached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, ornot substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition oradditions.

As indicated above, a further subject of the invention is a method forthe nontherapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, inparticular the hair, comprising the application, to said materials, of acomposition as described above.

This application may or may not be followed by rinsing.

When the application of the composition is followed by a rinsingoperation, the leave-in time of the composition on the keratin materialsranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to30 minutes, even better still from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.

Whether in rinsed mode or non-rinsed mode, the application of thecomposition may take place in the presence of heat. The heating devicemay be a hairdryer, a hood dryer, a curling iron or a flat iron. Theheating temperature may be between 40° C. and 220° C.

The application of the composition according to the invention to thehair may take place on dry hair or on wet hair. It may in particular becarried out after a shampooing operation or after a pretreatment atacidic or basic pH.

A subject of the invention is also the use of a composition according tothe invention for caring for and/or shaping keratin materials,especially keratin fibres and in particular human keratin fibres such asthe hair.

The examples that follow are intended to illustrate the inventionwithout, however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE 1

The rinse-out care composition (A) is prepared from the ingredientsindicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed asweight percentages of active material relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

Composition A (invention) 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 1 Potato starchacetate (Perfectamyl 1 AC from Avebe) Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol250 0.2 HHR from Ashland) C16/C18 cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50) 3.5Mixture of myristyl myristate, cetyl 0.7 palmitate and stearyl stearate(Miraceti from Laserson) Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 1.58 as a 79%solution in isopropanol (Genamin KDMP from Clariant) Lactic acid qs pH 9Fragrance qs Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.2 Water qs 100%

When applied as a rinse-out hair conditioner, composition (A) gives thehair mass, volume and also a uniform feel from the root to the end.

Furthermore, this composition makes it possible to facilitate theshaping of fine hair and to give a better curl definition to curly hair.

EXAMPLE 2

Composition (B) is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tablebelow, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages ofactive material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition B (invention) 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 5 Hydroxypropylcorn starch 4.4 phosphate (Structure ZEA from Akzo Nobel)Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 0.7 250 HHR from Ashland) Lactic acid1.75 pH agent qs pH 9 Deionized water qs 100%

Composition (C) is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tablebelow, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages ofactive material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition C Bis(diglyceryl) poly(2-acyladipate) 0.15 (Softisan 649from Sasol) Amino silicone in an aqueous emulsion 0.96 containing 60% AM(Dow Corning 2-8299 Cationic Emulsion from Dow Corning)Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 0.2 HHR from Ashland) C16/C18cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50) 3 Mixture of myristyl myristate, cetyl 0.25palmitate and stearyl stearate (Miraceti from Laserson) LaurylPEG/PPG-18/18 methicone at 0.18 72% active material (Dow Corning 5200Formulation Aid - Dow Corning) Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride as 1.58a 79% solution in isopropanol (Genamin KDMP from Clariant) pH agent qspH 3.5 PEG-180 (Polyethylene glycol) 2 L-Glycine 0.01 D-Panthenol 0.1Vitamin E acetate 0.1 2-Oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol 0.01 Fragrance qsPreserving agents, dyes qs Water qs 100%

Compositions B and C are conditioned in a two-bodied device consistingof two compartments and of a dispensing head for dispensing a mixtureconsisting of equal amounts of compositions B and C.

When applied as a rinse-out hair conditioner, the mixture ofcompositions (B) and (C) (50/50 by weight) gives the hair mass, volumeand also a uniform feel from the root to the end.

Furthermore, this composition makes it possible to facilitate theshaping of fine hair and to give a better curl definition to curly hair.

1.-15. (canceled)
 16. A cosmetic composition comprising: (i) at leastone alkoxysilane, and (ii) at least one starch modified with an acid oran acid derivative.
 17. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16,wherein the at least one alkoxysilane is chosen from the followingcompounds: compounds of formula (I):

wherein: R₄ represents a halogen or a group OR_(a) or R_(1a); R₅represents a halogen or a group OR_(b) or R_(2a); R₆ represents ahalogen or a group OR_(c) or R_(3a); R₁ and R₂ represent, independentlyof each other, a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched hydrocarbon-based group, R₃, R_(a), R_(b), R_(c), R_(1a),R_(2a) and R_(3a) represent, independently of each other, a saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, optionallybearing additional chemical groups chosen from acid or amine groups,wherein R_(a), R_(b) and R_(c) may also be chosen from hydrogen, andfurther wherein at least two of the groups R₄, R₅ and R₆ are differentfrom the groups R_(1a), R_(2a) and R_(3a). compounds of formula (II):(R₂₁O)x(R₂₂)ySi—(B)p-[NR₂₃—(B_(a))pa]q-[NR_(23a)—(B_(b))pb]qa-Si(R_(22a))ya(OR_(21a))xawherein: R₂₁, R₂₂, R_(21a) and R_(22a) represent, independently of eachother, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-basedchain, optionally containing at least one heteroatom, optionallyinterrupted or substituted with at least one group chosen from ether,ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, R₂₃ andR_(23a) each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionallycontaining at least one heteroatom, optionally interrupted orsubstituted with at least one ether, C₁-C₂₀ alcohol ester, amine,carboxyl, C₆-C₃₀ aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl group, or a heterocyclic ornon-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with at least oneC₁-C₂₀ alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acylgroup, x is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, y=3-x, xa is an integerranging from 1 to 3, ya=3-xa, p=0 or 1, pa=0 or 1, pb=0 or 1, q=0 or 1,qa=0 or 1, wherein at least one of q or qa is not zero, B, B_(a) andB_(b) each independently represent a linear or branched divalent C₁-C₂₀alkylene radical; compounds of formula (III):

wherein: R₂₄ and R₂₅ represent, independently of each other, a saturatedor unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionallycontaining at least one heteroatom, optionally interrupted orsubstituted with at least one group chosen from ether, ester, amine,amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, e=2 or 3; f=3-e; g=0 or1; j=0 or 1; E and E_(a) each independently represent a linear orbranched divalent C₁-C₂₀ alkylene radical, R₂₆ and R₂₇ eachindependently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated,linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing atleast one heteroatom, optionally interrupted or substituted with atleast one ether, C₁-C₂₀ alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, C₆-C₃₀ aryl,hydroxyl or carbonyl group, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclicaromatic ring, optionally substituted with at least one C₁-C₂₀ alcoholester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl group, R₂₆ andR₂₇ preferably representing a hydrogen atom, i is an integer rangingfrom 0 to 4, h is 0 or 1, the i groups R₂₈ each independently representa hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,C₁-C₁₀ hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing at least oneheteroatom, optionally interrupted or substituted with at least oneether, C₁-C₂₀ alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, C₆-C₃₀ aryl, hydroxyl orcarbonyl group, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring,optionally substituted with at least one C₁-C₂₀ alcohol ester, amine,amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl group.
 18. The cosmeticcomposition according to claim 17, wherein the alkoxysilane isrepresented by: compounds of formula (I), wherein at least one of R₁ andR₂ represents a hydrogen atom; or compounds of formula (II), wherein atleast one of R₂₃ and R_(23a) represents a hydrogen atom.
 19. Thecosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the alkoxysilane isrepresented by formula (I) below:

wherein: R₁ and R₂, independently of each other, are chosen fromhydrogen and ethyl, propyl and aminoethyl groups; R₃ is chosen fromethyl, propyl and methylphenethyl groups; R₄, R₅ and R₆, independentlyof each other, are chosen from methyl, methoxy and ethoxy groups. 20.The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the alkoxysilaneis chosen from alkoxysilanes comprising at least one amine function. 21.The cosmetic composition according to claim 20, wherein the at least oneamine function is primary or secondary.
 22. The cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 16, wherein the alkoxysilane is chosen from3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane,N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and3-(2-aminoethylamino)propyl-methyldiethoxysilane.
 23. The cosmeticcomposition according to claim 16, wherein the alkoxysilane is3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane.
 24. The cosmetic composition according toclaim 16, wherein the alkoxysilane is present in the composition in anamount ranging from about 0.05% to about 20% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the cosmetic composition.
 25. The cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 16, wherein the alkoxysilane is present in thecomposition in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to about 5% by weightrelative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
 26. Thecosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the starch is chosenfrom corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and peastarches.
 27. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, whereinthe acid or the acid derivative is chosen from mineral or organic acids,salts thereof, organic acid chlorides, organic acid anhydrides, organicacid esters and mineral oxychlorides.
 28. The cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 16, wherein the starch modified with an acidderivative is chosen from starch phosphates and starch acetates.
 29. Thecosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the starch modifiedwith an acid derivative represents from about 0.01% to about 10% byweight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
 30. Thecosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the starch modifiedwith an acid derivative represents from about 0.5% to about 5% by weightrelative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
 31. A processfor the nontherapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, comprising:applying to said keratin fibers a composition comprising: (i) at leastone alkoxysilane, and (ii) at least one starch modified with an acid oran acid derivative.
 32. The process according to claim 31, furthercomprising: leaving the composition on said keratin fibers afterapplying the composition to said keratin fibers.
 33. The processaccording to claim 31, further comprising: rinsing the composition fromsaid keratin fibers after applying the composition to said keratinfibers.
 34. The process according to claim 31, wherein the applying ofthe composition takes place in the presence of heating between about 40°C. and about 220° C.
 35. A process for caring for and/or shaping keratinfibers chosen from human hair, comprising: applying to said keratinfibers a composition comprising: (i) at least one alkoxysilane, and (ii)at least one starch modified with an acid or an acid derivative.